Lasting and fastening-inserting machine.



A. BATES. LASTING AND FASTENING INSERTING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 9, 1912. 1 ,1 98,405. 1 Patented Sept. 19,1916.

5 SHEETS-SHEET Fig.1

A. BATES. LASTING AND FASTENING INSERTING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED NOV. 9. 1912.

1,198,405. PatentedSept.19,1916.

5 SHEETSSHEET 2.

A. BATES. LASTING AND FASTENING INSERTING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 9, I912. 1 ,1 98,405. Patented Sept. 19,1916.

7 5 SHEETS-SHEET 3- I A. BATES. LASTING AND FASTENING INSERTING MACHINE.

I APPLICATION FILED NOV. 9. 1912. v 1 ,1 98,405. Patented Sept. 19,1916.

. 5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

Fig. 4.

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izm $2 A. BATES. LASTING AND FASTENlNG INSERTING MACHINE.

APPUCATION man NOV. 9, 1912. 1,1 98,405. PatentedSept. 19,1916.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

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UNITED STATES PATENT onFIo I ARTHUR BATES, OF LEICESTER, ENGLAND, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW ERSEY.

LASTING- AND FASTENING-INSERTING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 19, 1916.

Application filed November 9, 1912. Serial No. 730,489.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ARTHUR BATES, a subject of the King of England, residingat Leicester, Leicestershire, England, have invented certain Improvements in Lasting and Fastening-Inserting Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to machines for making boots and shoes and particularly to machines for lasting and attaching the upper of a shoe to the sole.

The illustrative embodiment of the invention herein shown and described is a lasting and sewing machine the construction of which is especially adapted for lasting a shoe of the stitch-down or Veldtschoen type and stitching to the projecting margin of the sole the outturned flange of upper with which these shoes are provided. As I am advised, I am the first in the art thus to last and stitch a Veldtschoen shoe, it having heretofore been considered impractical to join these two operations in the manufacture of this type of shoe; In manufacturing shoes of this type heretofore, the shoe has been lasted by drawing the upper about the last and securing it in place by tacks driven through the margin of upper into the edge of the sole, as shown and described, for example, in prior Letters Patent of the United States, No. 1,002,358, granted September 5, 1911 on my application filed September 3, 1907. Then the shoe thus lasted has been passed to a stitching machine which applied a narrow strip of welt on the top of the outturned flange of upper and against the upper face of the sole margin and stitched through the welt, upper and sole, thereby securing the parts together. The lasting tacks were afterward withdrawn from theedge of the sole and the excess material trimmed from the projecting edges of the welt, upper and outsole.

It is the chief object of this invention to provide a machine for performing simultaneously on this type of shoes the lasting and stitching operations, or the lasting, stitching and trimming operations, or the lasting, welt applying, stitching and trimnnng operations, and as I am advised I am the first in the art to produce a machine for doing this work on the Veldtschoen type of shoes.

A broad feature of this invention con sists in providing a combined lasting and fastening machine which will work a portion of the outturned upper of a Veldtschoen shoe into finally lasted position and permanently v secure that portion of the upper in that position. i

More specifically a feature of this invention consists in mechanism by which the upper of'a Veldtschoen shoe can be properly tensioned or subjected to stress, brought into close relation to the sole, and stitched along a line between the side face of the last and the edge of the projecting margin of the sole, and a further important feature comprises the combination with means for lasting a boot or shoe of means which is so constructed and arranged relatively to the lasting means that it can connect the upper to the top face of the projecting marginal portion of the sole of said boot or shoe simultaneously and progressively with the lasting as the lasting operation is carried on at diflerent points successively around the shoe. By the illustrated mechanism embodying these features of the invention the outturned margin of the upper is gripped adjacent to the point where it is to be attached to the sole, is drawn out-- wardly of the shoe substantially parallel to the extending margin of the sdle, and in or near contact therewith and is immediately thereafter secured to the sole by sewing mechanism, which may include a reciprocating aw'l, acting through the upper and sole at a point between the side of the last and the edge of the'upper surface of the margin of the sole which extends beyond the bottom of the last.

A. further feature of the invention is found in the provision, in a .machine for operating upon shoes of this type, of a work support having certain novel characteristics and combinative relations to other parts. The work support shown as embodying these features of the invention is formed as a fixed work table with ahorizontal upper face on which the projecting marginal portionof a shoe of the type described is adapted to rest in correct operative relation to the sewing instrumentalities. The outer edge of the work support is formed atan acute angle to the top face and the shoe is rested on the said support with the bottom of the sole uppermost and the upper downwardly, the upper material of the shoe being laid over the welt and being pressed laterally or horizontally toward the angular portion of the table so as to force it into the crease or angle. The upper material projects beyond the work support so that it comes within reach of a gripper which is provided to seize and pull it over the support, preferably against the top face thereof, and about the last.

The gripper, which forms an important feature of the invention, is given a movement as a whole relatively to the work support in a plane parallel to the plane of the sole, the gripping surfaces of the gripper jaws being substantially parallel to the plane of the sole or last bottom and to the top face of the work support so that stock held by them may be tensioned directly outwardly from the last and brought into contactlwith the sole by pressing the shoe toward the.work support which engages the projecting margin of the-shoe. Provision is made for adjusting the gripper vertically so that the gripping faces thereof may be moved to a position in which they will be, when closed, substantially in the plane of the shoe engaging face of the work support.

A further feature of the invention resides in a novel organization of the gripper operating mechanism. The closing and tensioning movements of the gripper are derived from a single operating mechanism, for example a cam, and both the upper seizing and upper tcnsioning movements are effected through resilient means to prevent overstraining the mechanism or tearing of the upper. Means is provided for feeding the work to the stitch forming mechanism and from this means movement is communicated to the gripper to feed the upper in the same direction. As shown the movement of the gripper is somewhat greater than the feed movement of the work feeding means to crowd or full the upper. I

Another feature of the invention consists in the combination of sewing mechanism arranged-to operate substantially perpendicularly to the sole, and a gripper constructed and arranged to seize the upper and tension it in the plane of the sole in advance of wardly against the sole margin.

the sewing operation. As shown, the sewhad for a fuller description of this type ofsewing machine than is set forth herein.

The machine is provided with a presscr foot which sometimes serves as a channel guide and is arranged to contact with the margin of the sole bottom and hold the shoe against the Work support upon which the other face of the shoe margin rests, and it is accordingly a feature of this invention that the presser foot or channel guide of the sewing ,machine acts, in cooperation with the work table, as a second gripping means which seizes the upper in the position in which it is tensioned by the gripper and holds it while it is being secured by the sewing means. Each portion of stock is thus treated successively by two pairs of gripping devices, one of which seizes and tensions the stock and another of which receives the tensioned stock and holds it to the sole for the operation of the sewing mechanism.

As a further feature of the invention, means is provided for trimming away the excess of upper material which extends beyond the stitching line. Preferably and as herein shown by way of exemplification, this means comprises a knife which acts upupper and passes through it to the surface of the projecting The knife is given a reciprocating or chopping movement and may conveniently be actuated by the oscillatory movement of the awl. As shown, the knife is mounted upon the awl segment which is given a partial rotation to drive the awl up through the work. By this arrangement the knife is given the desired movement, and in this movement toward and from the surface of the sole acts to chop away a por tion of the upper which extends beyond a predetermined distance from the plane of action of the sewing mechanism. The welt is usually applied to the exposed surface of the projecting margin of the upper and is sewn with the upper to the projecting margin of the sole. When a welt is so attached, the chopping knife is preferably so adj usted as to cut off the excess of upper material even with the edge of the welt which is be ing applied upon it. In case the outsole low In the operation of. the machine, the thread occasionally .breaks from one cause or another, and this fact may not be observed by the operator until the work has beenfed by the machine some dlstanoe, the sole and upper being punctured by the awl and the upper being trimmed away by the chopping knife while no stitches are formed.

' I When the failure of the stitching mechanism is observed, the operator stops the machine as soon as possible and sets the work back to where the last perfect stitch was formed, but as the upper was trimmed away from this portion by the continued operation of the machine after the breaking of the thread there'is, of course, insufficient projection of upper material to beselzed by the gripper and hence it is diflicult to last this portion of the upper properly and secure it to the sole. To obviate this difliculty, means forming a feature of this invention is provided bywhich the feeding of the work is stopped immediately if the thread breaks or if slackness occurs in the thread from other causes. As stated, the work is fed by the awl, the awl being carried upon a slide which is actuated a tance corresponding to the length of the stitch by suitable mechanism. As herein shown means is provided for arresting lateral movement of the awl carrier if the thread breaks, and for this purpose the awl carrying slide, instead of being directly connected to its actuating means, is connected thereto by interengaging means which is normally held by a spring in position to lock the awl carrier to the said actuating means. If the thread breaks or slackens suddenly beyond a certain point, however, a member which has been previously supported by the tensioned thread is released by the broken or slackened thread and is so arranged that in its movement in response to gravity or a-spring, or both, it comes in contact with a projecting portion of the interlocln'ng means by which the slide and awl carrier are locked together, and by its momentum causes the interlocking means to be disengaged whereupon the awl carrier stops While the actuating slide continues to reciprocate. It is desirable that when the awl is restarted after it has been stopped by breaking of the thread, the awl shall be given a feed movement equal to the full length of the stitch, and accordingly means is provided whereby the awl is always stopped at one extreme of its movement so that when reconnected with its actuating means it will be given a full length stroke. Preferably the awl is stopped at the extreme right-hand limit of its movedis- .ment, so that when tuating slide once to feed the work the full length of the stitch. This result may be eifected by having the interengaging means which connects the awl carrying slide to the actuatlng slide remain in position to be engaged by the acand moved thereby to the lefthand limit of its stroke and left there when the actuating slide returns.

The awl and needle in their operative movement pass through the work support in front of the presser foot and through the sole margin and projecting flange of upper which are held between the work support and the presser foot, the stitch being formed between the edge of the sole and the side of the last. When the gripper has seized the upper and has tensioned it, outwardly of the shoe, and the upper is brought down close to the sole by pressure of the presser foot toward the work support which acts to tuck the upper into the angle between the side of the last and projecting margin the work. The gripper preferably and as hereinshown is connected to the mechanism which communlcates movement to the awl restarted it will act at to feed the work. This connection is preferably such that, as hereinbefore noted as a fgature of the invention, the feed movement transmitted to the gripper is somewhat greater than that given tothe awl, whereby the gripper feeds the upper at a rate in excess of that at which the awl feeds the sole whereby the gripper has a plaiting effect which is of advantage .in disposing of the excessive fullness of the upper.

' These and other features of the invention, including novel" constructions and combinations of parts, will appear more fully from the following detailed description when read in connection with the accompanying. drawings and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,-Figure 1 is a side elevation of the machine, partly in section, looking in a direction from right to left; Fig. 2 is a sectional elevation in a plane to the left of the gripper mechanism and looking from left to right; Fig. 3 is a perspective View of the principal operating parts of the machine; Fig. 4 is an elevation of the righthand side of the machine; Fig. 5 is a plan view of the awl carrier and portions of its operating mechanism; Fig. 6 is a sectional view on the line 66 of Fig. 5, and Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the work support detached.

Referring to Fig. 1 of the drawings, the

character 2 indicates the column of the mashortened to change the and hand wheel '8 to communicate movement to the various instrumentalities of the sewing mechanism and the lasting mechanism.

The latter mechanism comprises a gripper having an upper jaw 10 and a lower jaw 12, the latter being formed on a substantially horizontal bar 14. The gripping face of the jaw 12 lies substantially in a horizontal plane and in the plane of the upper face of the work support or abutment l6. The forward end of the jaw bar 14 upon which the jaw 12 is formed is supported by a link 18, one end of which is pivoted to the'bar while the other is pivoted to a feed slide 20 u on which the awl 100 of the sewing mechanism is mounted and which is moved intermittently, after the awl pierces the work, to effect feed movements thereof. The rear end of the jaw bar 14 is supported by a lever 22 pivoted to the frame 4 at 25. he connection between the jaw bar 14 and the lever 22 is in the form of a universal joint comprising axes 24 and 26 arranged at right angles to each other. By the lever 22 the jaw bar is moved longitudinally, after the jaws are closed, to effect tensioning of the upper. The upper jaw 10 is formed on a bell-crank lever 30 which is pivoted at 32to the jaw bar 14. The jaw 10 has a toothed gripping surface adapted to coijperate with corresponding teeth formed in the upper face of the lower jaw 12. The gripping faces of the jaws, when the jaws are closed, are substantially parallel with, and preferably in, the plane of the upper surface of the work rest 16 and also of the bottom of the last. The other arm of the lever 30 projects up wardly and at its end is connected to operating mechanism which causes the lever to swing on its pivot 32 and move the jaw 10 toward the lower jaw 12 to grip the material. Mechanism for operating the lever 30 comprises a link 38 which is pivoted to the upper end of the lever 30 while the other end of the link is pivoted to an intermediate lever 40 fulcrumed at 41 to the jaw bar .14. A stem 42 is journaled in the rear end of the intermediate lever 40 and has a groove 43 in which a pin 45 is seated to prevent longitudinal movement of the stem 42 relatively to the lever, but permitting rotation of the stem about its longitudinal axis. To the stem 42 is pivoted an upwardly extending link 48 which passes through a trunnion block 50 journaled between the lugs 52 of a stem 53 which extends horizontally and is mounted for rotation in a cam-actuated driving member 56, being prevented from endwise movement by a washer and pin upon the end of the stem 51 The connection between the lever 40 and the trunnion block 50 is resilient in one direction and it may be relative positions of the gripping jaws when opened and the The length of the rod force with which they grip the upper. To effect these results the link 48.passes loosely through the trunnion block 50 and a spring 49 is interposed between a shoulder on the link 48 and the trunnion block 50. The link 48 is screw-threaded at its upper end and is provided with a nut 62 which bears on the trunnion block 50. Closing movement of the pincers is therefore effected through the medium. of the link 48 and spring 49 and the strength of the spring 49 may be varied by adjusting the nut 62.

he driving member 56 is actuated by a cam mechanism, to be described, so as to operate the upper jaw of the gripper. The driving member 56 is also connected to and actuates the operating lever 22 which is connected in the manner described with the rear end of the jaw bar 14. Movement of the driving member 56 through this connection causes the lever 22 to swing on its pivot, and when the aws have gripped the upper, effects their movement rearwardly of the machine or away from the shoe so as to pull the upper and tighten it about the last. As shown the gripper acts in a path which lies entirely outside of the last; that is, laterally beyond a vertical plane which touches the face of the last that is adjacent to the gripper. The connection from the driving member 56 to the lever 22 includes a rod 66 which is threaded into a boss 64 formed on the driving member and passes t rough a trunnion block 68 journaled to and between ears formed on the upper portion of the lever 22. A helical spring 70 surrounds "the projecting rod 66 and is located between the trunnion block 68 and a wing nut 72 threaded on to theend of the wing nut 72 rod 66. Adjustment of the varies the pull or tension applied to the upper by the gripper. An abutment 74 is formed on the rod 66 on the sidei opposite to that on which the spring 70 is carried. 66 may be adjusted by screwing more or less of it into the boss 64 of the driving member 56 and the rod is provided with a set nut 7 6 to hold it in adj usted position. This construction obviously serves to effect adjustment of the. gripper jaws relatively to the work support and shoe so as to cause them to grasp more or less of the projecting upper material, as required. Owing to the pivotal connection of the jaw bar with the feed slide 20 when the jaw bar is adjusted forwardly or rearwardly of the machine, the vertical position of the jaws will be changed and in order to compensate for this the link 18 which supports the said jaw bar is arranged for adjustment to vary the position of the jaws. This is simply effected by making the pivot 17 of the link 18, Fig. 2, in the form of an eccentric pin held in place by a screw which may be loosened and the pivot turned a portion of a revolution to ad ust the link and jaws vertically.

The mechanismfor operating the driving member 56 comprises a peripheral four-motion cam 80, which is secured to the main shaft 6 and is located in a recess 82 formed in the driving member 56. The recess is sub stantially in the form of a square, although I the corners with which the cam does not contact may be rounded or otherwise shaped as desired. With this type of cam co6perating with a recess shaped as described, there is no lost motion during the rotation of the cam as each side of the recess is in continuous contact with some part of the cam. In the ,operation of the machine, during the first quarter revolution of the cam 80 in the direction of the arrow from the position shown in Fig.2, the driving member 56 is moved to swing the upper jaw about its pivot toward the lower jaw so as to grip the projecting margin of the upper. During the second quarter revolutionthe jaws remain closed and the cam moves the driving member horizontally to tension the upper by means of force transmitted through the spring 7 0 bearing on the trunnion block. 68, the upper end of the operating lever 22 being swung inwardly and causing the jaws to tension the upper. The extent of the lupper pulling movement is determined by an adjustable limiting stop 27 with which the lever 22 may contact. During the third quarter revolution the upper jaw will be swung in a reverse direction so as to release the upper material while, the gripper remains in retracted position and during the last quarter revolution the camreturns the gripper to its initial forward position.

The work support 16 has the form best illustratedin Figs. 3 and 7. It is attached to the machine frame at 15 and extends forwardly and to the right into a position in the path of the awl with its upper surface in the plane of the gripping face of the lower jaw .12 of the gripper and just in front of its forward position. The forward edge of the work support is formed as an acute angle as at 19 for entering the angle, see Fig. 7, between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole to form or tuck the upper into that angle and hold it by the flat upper face of the support in contact with the sole margin as the work is pressed against the support. The work support is provided with a slot 21 through which the awl acts and along which it moves in its feed movements. The slot 21 ends at the left in a groove as shown through which the thread of the formed stitches passes as the shoe is fed. An opening 23 is provided in the righthand end of the work support through which the welt passes obliquely upwardly and toslide,

ward the left to the sewing point. The work support is hollowed out over the slotted portion to accommodate the thickness of the welt, as shown.

The curved awl 100 of the machine is arranged to move upwardly through the slot 21 in the work support to pierce the work and then to feed the work by a lateral move ment. The awl is preferably mounted on the slide 20 so that the gripper and awl move in unison to feed the work. The gripping surfaces of the gripper jaws, however, are actuated somewhat farther than the feed slide and awl because the attachment of the gripper to the feed slide is at some distance back of the gripping faces of the gripper and, as the gripper turns about a center 24 which is situated at some distance to the rear of the parts 17, 18 by which they are connected to their actuating slide 20, it will be understood that their gripping faces move somewhat farther than does the feed and therefore tend to plait or to full the upper particularly at its outer edge and outside the stitching line. This advances the edge of the upper, particularly around the toe, into desirable position for the gripper to awl carrying or feed slide 20 is preferably located on one sideof the gripper and the support 103 of the needle 104 is preferably located on the other side of the gripper.

seize it at its next operation. The

For trimming away the excess of upper the sole, a trimming knife 101 is provided which, as shown, Figs. 2 and 3, is mounted with the awl in an offset 105 from the awl segment 107 which is toothed as shown, Fig. 2, and is operated by a coiiperating segment 109 formed on a cam lever 113, which is operated by a path cam 115. The knife 101 is so adjusted with relation to the awl that as the awl moves up through the work the knife will act at the rear of the work support 16 and will pass by the outer edge of the weltinto contact with the margin of upper which extends beyond the welt and will sever the projecting margin of upper which is sustained against the knife thrust by the projecting margin of the sole. Prefferably the knife does not have sulficient movement to cut into the sole and if the sole is sufliciently close to its final shape the mounted forreciprocation in the direction of the feed of the work in grooved guide-- ways in the machine frame in which it is held by gibs 114, 115. The inner portion of the foot of the feed slide is formed as a separate actuating slide 116, Figs. 3, and 6, which is guided at one edge by part of i the gib 115 and at the other edge has a portion 117 Fig. 6, underlying the foot of the slide 20. Reciprocating movement is cominunicated to the slide 116 through a bar 120, Fig. 5, which is pivoted thereto at 122 and carries a block'124 which is adjustable in a segmental guideway in a short forwardly projectingarm'l26 of a lever which is continuously reci rocated about a pivot 128 by connection 0 its rear arm 129 with a suitable cam, Fig. 4. The length of the movement of the slide 116 and hence of the feed movement of the awl may be adjusted by swinging the bar 120 to locate the block 124 relatively to the pivot 128, a plate 130 and pins 132 being provided to furnish limiting stops for arresting the lever in various positions of adjustment.

At the right-hand end of the foot of the feed slide 20 is a boss 134 in which is mounted a threaded stud 136 upon which is adjustably held by suitable set nuts a block 138, to the under side of which is pivoted a locking bar 140 which extends to the left under the slide foot and the actuating slide 116 and projects beyond them at the lefthand side. The bar 140 is provided with two lugs 142, 144 which project upwardly and: backwardly from the bar, Fig. 6, and interlock with the actuating slide 116. The lug 144 engages a notch 145, while the lug 142 projects across the end of the right-hand end of the slide 116. A spring 146 is coiled about the pivot of the bar 140 and normally holds the projections of the bar in looking engagement with the slide 116. Outward movement of the left-hand end of the bar 140 will, however, disengage the lug 144 of the bar from locking engagement with the notch 145 in the slide 116, whereby the feed slide 20 is permitted to stop at the righthand end of the stroke, to which it is carried by the lug 142 for completing its feeding reciprocation, tinues to reciprocate.

Mechanism shown in Fig. 3 is provided to ,normally under tension holds the arm 152 normally down against the pull of the while the slide 116 con-,

spring 156. The arm 152 is provided with a downwardly projecting tappet arm 164 which is normally maintained by the tension of the thread in the position shown. Should the thread break, however, the arm 152 will quickly swing up in response to the pull of the spring 156 and the tappet arm 164 will strike the end of the lever 140 and having acquired considerable momentum from its free movement will swing the lever 140 forwardly in Fig. 3 far enough to disengage the lug 144 on said lever from the notch 145 in the actuating slide 116, whereupon feed movements of the awl will be arrested.

enever the thread breaks, therefore, suden movement of the tappet arm 164 will cause feedingofthe work to cease without the pro ecting margin of upper being trimmed away by the knife 101 so that there would be insuflicient upper material for the gripper to engage when the work is moved back to the point where the last perfect stitch was formed.

The disengagement of the interengaging mechanism has been described in connection with the breaking of the thread, but it will be obvious that it may operate should slackness develop in the thread from any other reason. For example the looper might not succeed in placing the thread around the needle properly, so that when the looper retired the thread would suddenly slip back, thus providing the necessary slack in the thread to permit the tappet 164 to effect arrestment of the feed slide movement.

A presser foot 200, Fig. 3, is provided for clamping the work while the stitch is being formed? The presser foot is mounted on an arm 202 and as shown has a projection 201 formed on the under face for engaging the channel to forni a channel guide. The foot is also provided with a reduced portion 203 extending to the left gripper and then backwardly at its end to hold down the extreme edge of the outturned margin of upper. The arm. 202 to which the presser foot is attached is pivoted at 204, Fig. 4, to the machine frame.

An arm 206, integral with the arm 202, extends inwardly and is connected with the usual mechanism comprising the member 208 for varying the feed of the thread in acthe thickness of the work which is between thework rest and the presser foot, as described in the patent above referred to. The member 208 is held upwardly and the presser foot normally depressed by a spring 209 located under the member 208. This spring being, however, relatively light does not apply any substantial clamping pressure to the work through the presser foot. A curved arm 210 extends downwardly from the pivot 204 and cooperates with mechanism for lifting the presser foot and for locking the presser foot across the end of the lever 212 is also carries a pivoted shoe 222 and a roll iss 224 which are located on the front and rear edges respectively of the arm 210. The shoe 222, the roll 224 and a rod 226 are all pivoted to the link 220, as is also at 228 the upper end of a treadle rod 230 on the same pivot with the rod 226. The rod 226 carries a collar 225 between the link 220 and the end of the lever 212 and above the end of the lever is another collar 232 upon which rests a spring 234 that is retained in place and has its tension adjusted by set nuts threaded upon the end of the rod 226. The pivoted shoe 222' is. adapted to cotiperate with the cammed edge face of the downwardly extending arm 210 when lever212 is raised by its calm to lock the presser foot down in its work clamping position. The roll 224 acts on the rear cammed edge face of the arm 210 whensaid lever 212 is reversely moved to raise the presser foot, the locking shoe 222 being at the same time released.

The unlocking and raising of the presser foot may be effected at any time in the cycle of the machine by movement of the link 220 downwardly by the treadle rod 230 and it is automatically unlocked for a portion of each cycle of the machine by the depression of the end of the lever 212 by its operating cam as described, the lever acting through the interposed collar 232 positively to depress the link 220 and remove the shoe 222 from looking position. Reverse movement of the lever 212 by its cam causes upward tension to be exerted upon the rod 226 through the spring 234 which raises the link 220 and forces the shoe 222 resiliently against the edge face of the arm 210 and acts to lock the presser foot in depressed position.

It will be observed that while the locking is effected through resilient means as described, the formations of the locking surfaces of the shoe 222 and of the cammed edge face of the arm 210 are such thatthe presser foot is locked positively against upward movement, since longitudinal strain on the link 220 caused by upward pressure on the presser foot tends only to force the cam roll 216 against the side of its cam path which cannot yield. Furthermore, the

' link220 forms one member of a toggle, the

other member of which comprises the portion of the lever 212 between the point 219 crease is where the link is pivoted to the lever and the pivot 214 of the lever, the third pivot of the toggle being the pivot 221 of the shoe 222. The three pivots of the toggle remain normally in approximately a straight line, being held in that position by the spacing collar 232 and spring 234 during the movement of the lever 212to depress the presser foot into engagement with the work. When the presser foot contacts with the work, however, the shoe 222, because of the in-v creased friction, ceases to move upwardly upon the cammed face of the arm 210 and further movement of the arm 212, by its operating cam, causes the above described toggle or two-part lever to break at the middle joint 219 with a consequent shortening of the distance between the points 221 and 214 which causes the presser foot to be forced into and locked in clamping engagement with the work.

The novel method performed by the machine as described is not claimed herein but is claimed in an application Serial No. 741,761, filed by me January 13, 1913.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. A machine for operating upon stitchdown shoes having, in combination, a work rest, a gripper arranged to pull the margin of the upper against the work rest so as to form a crease or angle between the side of the 'last and the outstanding margin of the sole, and means for permanently securing the outturned margin of the upper to the top side of; the projecting margin of the sole.

2. A machine for lasting stitch-down shoes having simultaneously operating mechanisms for lasting the upper and for permanently securing it in lasted position, comprising a gripper, a work support or abutment between the gripper and the work, means for effecting relative movement between the gripper and work support whereby the upper is pulled about the last and a formed therein against the work support, means for holding the upper in lasted position, and means for permanently securing the outturned flange of upper to the top side of the projecting margin of the sole.

3. A machine for lasting stitch -down shoes having, in combination, a work rest or support, and stitching apparatus combined with a gripper and means for actuating the same to tighten the upper arranged to permit a shoe to be held against the work support with its sole upward and in a horizontal position, the tightening pull of the gripper on the free margin of the upper being also substantially horizontal.

4. In a machine for performing the operation of simultaneously lasting and permanently securing the uppers of stitch-down shoes to the soles by fastenin s inserted through the outturned flange 0 the upper and into or through the margin of the sole, the combination of a work support and a gripper located with reference to the work support so as to exert a pull upon the free; margin of the ing away and means for moving the gripper, after the pull, toward the previously secured portions of the margin to full or plait the margin of the upper.

5. A machine shoes, having in combination, upper and sole connecting mechanism including a reciprocating awl moving substantially perpendicularly to the sole for sewing through and through the sole and the outwardly projecting flange of the upper, and a gri per arranged to pull the upper substantially perpendicularly to the direction of movement of the awl through the sole and operating -means for said mechanism and gripper.

6. A machine for lasting and sewing stitch-down shoes having, in combination,

' upper and sole connecting mechanism ineluding a reciprocating awl moving perpendicularly to the sole for sewing through and through the sole and jecting margin of the upper, agripper pointed outwardly toward said awl and substantially perpendicularly to the direction of movement of the awl through the sole for grasping the margin of the upper, and means for moving the gripper in a line substantially perpendicular to the direction of movement of the awl.

7. A lasting machine having, in combina tion, fastening mechanism, a normally open gripper, a rest having an upper face to re ceive the projecting margin of an inverted stitch-down shoe, and an outer face to form a lateral abutment for the shoe, and means whereby the gripper is automatically closed upon the upper and given a bodily movement inwardly away from the rest and the shoe to effect tensioning of the upper.

8. In a machine arranged to last a stitchdown shoe, a support for the side and for the top face of the projecting marginal portion of the shoe, a gripper comprising a lower jaw substantially in the plane of the top face of the support, a cooperating jaw, sewing mechanism including a needle located in advance of the gripper, means for actuating the gripper away from the support to effect stretching of the upper, and means for advancing the shoe and the gripper together into position for the needle to enter and the sewing mechanism to fasten the stretched portion of the upper.

9. In a lasting machine having a rest for the upper face of the projecting margin of the upper and sole of an inverted stitchupper in a direction extendfrom the last throughout the pull;

for. lasting stitch down.

the last and the the outwardly prodown shoe assembled upon a last, the combination of a gripper for seizing the upper and having a movement substantiall in the plane of the last bottom to tenslon the upper, and means for operating the gripper.

l0. machine for lasting a shoe havmg a projecting sole to receive an outturned flange of the upper, comprising a support for the rojecting margin of the sole, a gripper or engaging the margin of the upper flange, and means for relatively actua ting said support and the gripper to ten- SlOIl the upper over the support and draw the flange substantially flat against the proecting 'margin of the sole, and sewing means engaging the upper between the gripper and the side of the lastwhile the upper 1s so held.

11. In a machine for lasting a shoe to have an outturned flange of upper attached to a projecting margin of the sole, the combination with suitable actuating mechanism of a gripper which is formed and arranged to tension the upper in the direction of the plane of the sole, and a work support cooperating with the gripper to upper into the angle between the side of top face of the projecting margin of the sole.

12.- A lasting machine having, in combination, means with reference to which the working position of the shoe is determined with the sole up and substantially horizontal, a gripper constructed and arranged with gripping faces substantially parallel to the last bottom to engage an outturned flange of the upper at the side of the last, means for closing the gripper, means for relatively moving the gripper and the last substantially in the plane of the last bottom to stretch the upper directly outwardly from the last, and means for sewing the ujiper to the projecting margin of a shoe so e.

13. In a machine arranged to last a stitchdown shoe, a support havin a top face to receive the pro ecting margin of the sole with the shoe in inverted position, a gripper comprising a lower jaw located substantially in the plane of the top face of the support, an upper jaw movable to grip theupper against the lower jaw and movable with the lower jaw away from the support in stretching the upper, means for applying a welt and stitching through the welt, margin of upper and projecting margin of the sole, and means for operating the jaws and the stitching means in time relation.

14. A machine for lasting a shoe having a projecting sole to receive an outturned flange of the upper, comprising a stationary support for the projecting margin of the upper and sole when the shoe is presented in inverted position thereto, a gripper, and means for actuating the gripper to seize the crowd the margin of the upper beyond the su'pport and tension it over the top face of said support between said face andthe margin of' when the shoe is presented in inverted posipull the upper in the plane of the sole to full the upper and transfer the pulled tion, a gripper arranged to tension the upper in a direction parallel with the top or sole engaging faceof the. support, a presser foot cooperating with the support for forcing the upper flange against the top face of the sole, and means acting through the presser foot to fasten the upper materials to the sole.

16. A lasting machine having, in combination, a gripper, sewing mechanism including a needle, and power operated means for relatively actuating the gripper and the last to pull the upper locally into position to be fastened and-then,'while the gripper holds the upper sopositi oned, to move it with the gripper into the fieldof operation of the sewing needle.

17. A lasting machine, having, in combination, a gripper, a fastening mechanism, and connected operating .mechanism constructed and arranged to effect movement of the gripper'with relation to the shoe t3 portion of the upper into the field of operation of the fastening mechanism and cause the fastening mechanism to secure it to the shoe sole.

18. A lasting machine nation, a gripper, and asewlng mechanism having an awl feed, and a needle into the held of operation of which the awl transfers successive portions of the work, and connected operating mechanism constructed and arranged to efiect movement of the gripper with relation to the shoe to pull the upper and to effect gripper while the shoe'is being fed by the awl but in excess of the awl feed, whereby the upper is fulled and the pulled portion thereof isbrought into the field of operation of the sewing needle.

19. A lasting machine having, in combination, ashoe support and-a presser foot arranged one above the other, a gripper-arranged at the opposite side of said support and foot from the side at which the shoe is located, means for actuating the gripper to pull the upper in substantially the plane of the shoe bottom away from thelast to tension the upper across thesupport, and means for actuating the presser foot to clamp the work against the support after the upper has been pulled.-

20, In a machine for performing the operation of simultaneously lasting and per-- having, in combiother movement of the.

. mechanism.

shoes having; in combination, a gripper, a

support for receiving the upper face of the projecting margin of a shoe, means for relatively actuating said parts to cause the upper to be stretched from the last across said support step by step by repetition of the operation at different points successlvely, and mechanism to fasten the upper in time relation to the stretching operations.

22. A stitch-down lasting machine comprising a support to extend'under the marginal edge of the sole when the shoe'is in 1nverted position, means arranged to seize the margin of the upper and to tension the gin and to enter from below and ,to feed the work progressively over the work support, and means for fastening the upper to the sole margin after the feeding movement.

23. A lasting machine for stitch-down of said support, an awl arrangedshoes, having, in combination, means for the gripping meanswiththe feeding means.

24. A lasting machine having, in combination, a gripper for seizing and tensioning the upper progressively prior to each feeding movement, means for feeding the work, and connections, for moving the gripper in the direction of the feed movement and faster than the feeding means is moved.

25. A lasting machine, having, in combi-v nation, a support, means for same across the upper face of said sole marthe stretched upper and the solefeeding the work over said support, a gripper for seizing and tensioning the upper progressively prior to each feeding movement, and means for moving the gripper farther than the feeding means moves whereb y the upper is fulled. I I p 26. 'A lasting machine having a'shoe rest, a lasting gripper, an awl feed sewing mechanism, and means for effecti'ngfeed movements of the grip-per from the awl feed 27. In a machine for lasting a' shoe hav-,

ing an outwardly extending margin of up-' ,sole, and a gripper constructed per to be attached to the margin of the sole extending beyond the last, means for tensioning the upper, means for crowding the upper into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, and means for sewing perpendicularly through the projecting margins of the sole and upper and applying a welt to hold the upper in said angle. r

28. A machine of the class descrlbed having, in combination with suitable operating mechanism, sewing mechanism arranged to operate substantially perpendicularly to the and arthe upper and tension it in ranged to seize sole in advance of the sewthe plane of the ing operation.

29. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, mechanism arranged to sew through the flange of the sole and upper of a stitch-down shoe, means arranged to hold the margin of the upper in the plane of the sole flange, and a gripper arranged for movement substantially in said plane to stretch the upper and hold it under tension at the time the sewing mechanism assumes control of it.

30. A machine of the class described having, in combination, mechanism arranged to sew through the flange of the sole and upper of a stitch-down shoe, a gripper, and means to actuate the gripper for seizing and tensioning the upper and positioning 1t relatively to the sole flange and said mechanism for the sewing operation to be performed.

31. A machine of the class described having, in combination, mechanism arranged to sew through the flange of the sole and the upper of a stitch-down shoe, a gripper, and means to impart to the gripper upper seizing, upper tensioning and upper feeding movements.

32. A machine of the class described, having, in combination, mech sew through the flange of the sole and upper of a stitch-down shoe, and including a work support to receive the sole flange,ja presser foot cooperating therewith to clamp and release intermittently the flanges, and a gripper having upper seizing and 'tensioning movements and a feeding movement toward the sewing mechanism while the presser foot is raised. I

33. In a lasting machine, the combination of means for tucking the upper into the angle formed by the slde of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, and means for.

tensloning the upper over said means.

34. In a machine for lasting shoes having an outturned margin of upper, the combination of a gripper for seizing and tensioning the upper in a of the sole and substantially perpendicular to the edge face of the sole, means for anism arranged to.

direction parallel to the plane crowding the tensioned upper into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin .of the sole, and means for sewing through the projecting margin of the upper and the sole to secure the upper to the sole in lasted position.

35. In a machine'for lasting andsewing stitch-down shoes, the combination of sewing means, combined shoe and welt guiding means arranged as a work support to engage the portion of the upper that is to be attached to the projectingmargin of the sole and to hold it against the said margin and in the angle between the side of the last and the said sole margin and to guide the welt into position in said angle and against the projecting upper, means for sewing through the sole, upper and welt, and means for trimming off the excess of upper material margin of the sole.

37. A machine for lasting and fastening stitch-down shoes, having, in combination, a

gripper mounted for movement in the plane of the last bottom and a work support having the plane of its top face substantially in the gripping plane of the gripper and havmg a thin outwardly projecting edge adapted to enter the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole.

38. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewmg means, gripper lasting means, awl feeding means and means for stopping the feed of the awl feeding means independently of th when the thread breaks. v

39. I and sewing machine the combinatlon of gripper lasting means, an awl carrying slide and an actuating slide, means normally connecting the slides for actuation together, and means normally held inactive by the. tension of the thread and adapted, if the thread breaks, to efi'ect disconnection of the awl slide fromits actuating slide.

40. In a lasting and sewing machine the combination of an awl, means acting normally to move the'awl to feed the work, gripper lasting means, and means comprismg a spring-impelled tappet normally restrained from action by the thread and acting if the thread breaks to arrest the feed movement of the awl.

e sewing means combination of a gripper for seizing the I gripper must seize upper, sewin mechanism, awl feeding mechanism, trimming means for removing the projecting margin of upper subsequently to the operation of the gripper, and progressively as the awl feeds the work, and means for arresting the feeding movements of the awl if the thread breaks so as to avoid trimming that portion of the upper which must be seized by the gripper when the sewing by the thread is resu med.

42. In a machine of the class described, the combination of shoe sewing mechanism, shoe feeding mechanism, gripper lasting means, and means for rendering the feeding mechanism inoperative when the thread in the sewing mechanism breaks.

43. In a machine for operating on shoes having an outturned margin of upper to be attached to a projecting margin of the sole, the combination of a gripper fortensioning the upper, mechanism for sewing through the tensioned portion of the upper and the projecting margin of the sole, means for trimming 01']? the projecting margin of upper after the gripper releases it, and means for rendering the trimming means inoperative if the sewing mechanism fails to form stitches.

H. A machine for lasting shoes having an outturned margin of upper to be attached to a projecting margin of the sole, having in combination, gripperlasting means, sewing means, awl feeding means, and trimming means connected to move with the awl and acting to chop through the upper to the projecting margin of the sole.

45. In a machine for lasting and sewing shoes which have an outturned margin of upper to be attached to the projecting margin of the sole, and sewing means including an awl carrier and trimming means mounted on the awl carrier and acting to chop away the excess of upper which extends beyond a predetermined distance from the stitching line.

46. In a machine shoes which have an outturned margin of upper to be attached to the projecting margin of the sole, sewing means including an awl carrier and trimming means mounted on the awl carrier and acting to chop away the excess of upper which extends beyond a predetermined distance from the stitching line, and gripper lasting and feed stopping means to prevent cutting away what the when sewing is resumed.

47. In a machine for lasting and sewing stitch-down shoes, the combination of a gripper to seize theupper, means for actuating the gripper automatically to pull the upper in a direction away from the last and in the plane of the last bottom, means adapted to be adjusted for varying the position to which said actuating means may move the for lasting and sewing u gripper outwardly. away from thelast, a work rest, a presser foot cooperating with the rest to hold the tensioned upper in the angle between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, and means for securing the upper permanently in said angle.

48. stitch-down shoes, the combination with a work rest for receiving the outwardly extending margin of the shoe, a presser foot cooperating with the work rest to clamp the upper materials composing said outwardly extending margin together, a gripper to seize the outwardly extending margin of the upper, means for automatically actuating the gripper to tension the upper in a direction away from the rest and the presser foot, and an adjustable stop for limiting the extent of movement of said gripper in said direction.

49. In a machine for lasting and sewing stitch-down shoes, the combination of a work In a machine for lasting and sewing rest for receiving the outwardly extending margin of the shoe, a gripper to seize the outwardly extending margin of the upper, means for automatically actuating the gripper to tension the upper by movement in a direction away from the last and substantially in the plane of the last bottom, means adapted to be adjusted for varying the position to which said actuating means can move thegripper, and means for permanently securlng the upper materials to the margin of the sole.

50. A lasting machine having, in combination, a shoe rest, and a presser foot arranged one above the other and cooperating to hold the upper between them, a gripper arranged inwardly of, said rest and foot, means for actuating the gripper to move the upper relatively to the last through the field of operation of the rest and foot, means for relatively actuating the rest and foot to clamp the upper against the projecting margm of the sole while the upper is still held by the gripper, and means for then releasing the gripper and returning'them to normal position.

- 51. A lasting machine for stitch-down shoes, having, in combination, a rest for the upper face of the outwardly projecting mar of a shoe, a gripper having a movement parallel to the last bottom and in a path entirely outside of the last, means for actuating the grlpper resiliently to tension the upper, and means to secure the upper in ing the sole and the outwardly projecting I flange of upper together, and agripper arranged to pull the upper substantially perthe flange of the sole and the flange of the pendicularly to the movement of the conupper, and means to work portions of the 40 necting means, and means for operating the freely outwardly extending flange of upper connecting mechanism and the gripper in into finally lasted position relatively to the. time relation. last and the flange of the sole and to hold 53. A machine of the class described havthe upper in such relation while the sewing ing, in combination, a shoe support having means fastens the upper to the sole. an outwardly projecting angular portion to 56. A lasting and fastening machine havextend into the crease or angle between the ing, in combination, means to fasten the side of the last and the pro ecting marginal reely outwardly extending flange of a portion of the sole Of-a stitch-down shoe, stitch-down shoe upper permanently to the said support being narrow to permit the upmarginal portion of a stitch-down sole pro- 50 per constructed and arranged to seize said work the freely outwardly extending flange extending portion of the upper and to tenof upper into 'finally lasted position in the sion the upper outwardly of the shoe and angle between the top face of the marginal cause it to render over the angular portion portion of the sole and the side of the last of the support, and means for securing the and hold the upper there while the fastenupper to the margin of the sole between the ing means secures it in the angle. portion seized and the angular portion of 5 In a machine for lasting and sewing the support. stitch-down shoes, the combination of sew- 54. In a lasting and sewing machine, the ing means, combined shoe and welt guidcombination of a gripper for seizing the ing means arranged as a work support to upper, sewing mechanism, awl feeding engage the portion of the upper that is to mechanism, trimming means for removing be attached to the pro ecting margin of the the projecting margin of upper subsequently sole and to hold it against the said margin to the operation of the gripper and proand in the angle between the side of the last gressively as the awl feeds the work, and and the said sole margin and toguide the means becoming operative if the thread welt into position in said angle and. against breaks to arrest the feed movement of the the projecting upper, and means for sewing 7o awl at one end of 1ts movement whereby, through the sole, upper and welt.

when feed movements of the awl are again In testimony whereof I have signed my resumed, the awl will 1lie given a full length name to this specification in the presence of stroke to feed the wor two subscribing witnesses.

' In a lasting and fastening machine ARTHUR BATES. for stitch-down shoes having a freely out- "Witnesses:

wardly extending flange of upper, the com- I FREDERICK WILLIAM WORTH,

bination of means arranged to sew through 1mm WILsoN. 

